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+
+Most of the Parthenon's imposing columns are still standing, but the roof
+is gone.  It was a perfect building two hundred and fifty years ago, when
+a shell dropped into the Venetian magazine stored here, and the explosion
+which followed wrecked and unroofed it.  I remember but little about the
+Parthenon, and I have put in one or two facts and figures for the use of
+other people with short memories.  Got them from the guide-book.
+
+As we wandered thoughtfully down the marble-paved length of this stately
+temple, the scene about us was strangely impressive.  Here and there, in
+lavish profusion, were gleaming white statues of men and women, propped
+against blocks of marble, some of them armless, some without legs, others
+headless--but all looking mournful in the moonlight, and startlingly
+human!  They rose up and confronted the midnight intruder on every side
+--they stared at him with stony eyes from unlooked-for nooks and recesses;
+they peered at him over fragmentary heaps far down the desolate
+corridors; they barred his way in the midst of the broad forum, and
+solemnly pointed with handless arms the way from the sacred fane; and
+through the roofless temple the moon looked down, and banded the floor
+and darkened the scattered fragments and broken statues with the slanting
+shadows of the columns.
+
+What a world of ruined sculpture was about us!  Set up in rows--stacked
+up in piles--scattered broadcast over the wide area of the Acropolis
+--were hundreds of crippled statues of all sizes and of the most exquisite
+workmanship; and vast fragments of marble that once belonged to the
+entablatures, covered with bas-reliefs representing battles and sieges,
+ships of war with three and four tiers of oars, pageants and processions
+--every thing one could think of.  History says that the temples of the
+Acropolis were filled with the noblest works of Praxiteles and Phidias,
+and of many a great master in sculpture besides--and surely these elegant
+fragments attest it.
+
+We walked out into the grass-grown, fragment-strewn court beyond the
+Parthenon.  It startled us, every now and then, to see a stony white face
+stare suddenly up at us out of the grass with its dead eyes.  The place
+seemed alive with ghosts.  I half expected to see the Athenian heroes of
+twenty centuries ago glide out of the shadows and steal into the old
+temple they knew so well and regarded with such boundless pride.
+
+The full moon was riding high in the cloudless heavens, now.  We
+sauntered carelessly and unthinkingly to the edge of the lofty
+battlements of the citadel, and looked down--a vision!  And such a
+vision!  Athens by moonlight!  The prophet that thought the splendors of
+the New Jerusalem were revealed to him, surely saw this instead!  It lay
+in the level plain right under our feet--all spread abroad like a
+picture--and we looked down upon it as we might have looked from a
+balloon.  We saw no semblance of a street, but every house, every window,
+every clinging vine, every projection was as distinct and sharply marked
+as if the time were noon-day; and yet there was no glare, no glitter,
+nothing harsh or repulsive--the noiseless city was flooded with the
+mellowest light that ever streamed from the moon, and seemed like some
+living creature wrapped in peaceful slumber.  On its further side was a
+little temple, whose delicate pillars and ornate front glowed with a rich
+lustre that chained the eye like a spell; and nearer by, the palace of
+the king reared its creamy walls out of the midst of a great garden of
+shrubbery that was flecked all over with a random shower of amber lights
+--a spray of golden sparks that lost their brightness in the glory of the
+moon, and glinted softly upon the sea of dark foliage like the pallid
+stars of the milky-way.  Overhead the stately columns, majestic still in
+their ruin--under foot the dreaming city--in the distance the silver sea
+--not on the broad earth is there an other picture half so beautiful!
+
+As we turned and moved again through the temple, I wished that the
+illustrious men who had sat in it in the remote ages could visit it again
+and reveal themselves to our curious eyes--Plato, Aristotle, Demosthenes,
+Socrates, Phocion, Pythagoras, Euclid, Pindar, Xenophon, Herodotus,
+Praxiteles and Phidias, Zeuxis the painter.  What a constellation of
+celebrated names!  But more than all, I wished that old Diogenes, groping
+so patiently with his lantern, searching so zealously for one solitary
+honest man in all the world, might meander along and stumble on our
+party.  I ought not to say it, may be, but still I suppose he would have
+put out his light.
+
+We left the Parthenon to keep its watch over old Athens, as it had kept
+it for twenty-three hundred years, and went and stood outside the walls
+of the citadel.  In the distance was the ancient, but still almost
+perfect Temple of Theseus, and close by, looking to the west, was the
+Bema, from whence Demosthenes thundered his philippics and fired the
+wavering patriotism of his countrymen.  To the right was Mars Hill, where
+the Areopagus sat in ancient times and where St. Paul defined his
+position, and below was the market-place where he "disputed daily" with
+the gossip-loving Athenians.  We climbed the stone steps St. Paul
+ascended, and stood in the square-cut place he stood in, and tried to
+recollect the Bible account of the matter--but for certain reasons, I
+could not recall the words.  I have found them since:
+
+     "Now while Paul waited for them at Athens, his spirit was stirred in
+     him, when he saw the city wholly given up to idolatry.  Therefore
+     disputed he in the synagogue with the Jews, and with the devout
+     persons, and in the market daily with them that met with him.
+                         * * * * * * * * *
+     "And they took him and brought him unto Areopagus, saying, May we
+     know what this new doctrine whereof thou speakest is?
+                         * * * * * * * * *
+     "Then Paul stood in the midst of Mars hill, and said, Ye men of
+     Athens, I perceive that in all things ye are too superstitious; For
+     as I passed by and beheld your devotions, I found an altar with this
+     inscription: To THE UNKNOWN GOD.  Whom, therefore, ye ignorantly
+     worship, him declare I unto you."--Acts, ch. xvii."
+
+It occurred to us, after a while, that if we wanted to get home before
+daylight betrayed us, we had better be moving.  So we hurried away.  When
+far on our road, we had a parting view of the Parthenon, with the
+moonlight streaming through its open colonnades and touching its capitals
+with silver.  As it looked then, solemn, grand, and beautiful it will
+always remain in our memories.
+
+As we marched along, we began to get over our fears, and ceased to care
+much about quarantine scouts or any body else.  We grew bold and
+reckless; and once, in a sudden burst of courage, I even threw a stone at
+a dog.  It was a pleasant reflection, though, that I did not hit him,
+because his master might just possibly have been a policeman.  Inspired
+by this happy failure, my valor became utterly uncontrollable, and at
+intervals I absolutely whistled, though on a moderate key.  But boldness
+breeds boldness, and shortly I plunged into a Vineyard, in the full light
+of the moon, and captured a gallon of superb grapes, not even minding the
+presence of a peasant who rode by on a mule.  Denny and Birch followed my
+example.
+
+Now I had grapes enough for a dozen, but then Jackson was all swollen up
+with courage, too, and he was obliged to enter a vineyard presently.  The
+first bunch he seized brought trouble.  A frowsy, bearded brigand sprang
+into the road with a shout, and flourished a musket in the light of the
+moon!  We sidled toward the Piraeus--not running you understand, but only
+advancing with celerity.  The brigand shouted again, but still we
+advanced.  It was getting late, and we had no time to fool away on every
+ass that wanted to drivel Greek platitudes to us.  We would just as soon
+have talked with him as not if we had not been in a hurry.  Presently
+Denny said, "Those fellows are following us!"
+
+We turned, and, sure enough, there they were--three fantastic pirates
+armed with guns.  We slackened our pace to let them come up, and in the
+meantime I got out my cargo of grapes and dropped them firmly but
+reluctantly into the shadows by the wayside.  But I was not afraid.  I
+only felt that it was not right to steal grapes.  And all the more so
+when the owner was around--and not only around, but with his friends
+around also.  The villains came up and searched a bundle Dr. Birch had in
+his hand, and scowled upon him when they found it had nothing in it but
+some holy rocks from Mars Hill, and these were not contraband.  They
+evidently suspected him of playing some wretched fraud upon them, and
+seemed half inclined to scalp the party.  But finally they dismissed us
+with a warning, couched in excellent Greek, I suppose, and dropped
+tranquilly in our wake.  When they had gone three hundred yards they
+stopped, and we went on rejoiced.  But behold, another armed rascal came
+out of the shadows and took their place, and followed us two hundred
+yards.  Then he delivered us over to another miscreant, who emerged from
+some mysterious place, and he in turn to another!  For a mile and a half
+our rear was guarded all the while by armed men.  I never traveled in so
+much state before in all my life.
+
+It was a good while after that before we ventured to steal any more
+grapes, and when we did we stirred up another troublesome brigand, and
+then we ceased all further speculation in that line.  I suppose that
+fellow that rode by on the mule posted all the sentinels, from Athens to
+the Piraeus, about us.
+
+Every field on that long route was watched by an armed sentinel, some of
+whom had fallen asleep, no doubt, but were on hand, nevertheless.  This
+shows what sort of a country modern Attica is--a community of
+questionable characters.  These men were not there to guard their
+possessions against strangers, but against each other; for strangers
+seldom visit Athens and the Piraeus, and when they do, they go in
+daylight, and can buy all the grapes they want for a trifle.  The modern
+inhabitants are confiscators and falsifiers of high repute, if gossip
+speaks truly concerning them, and I freely believe it does.
+
+Just as the earliest tinges of the dawn flushed the eastern sky and
+turned the pillared Parthenon to a broken harp hung in the pearly
+horizon, we closed our thirteenth mile of weary, round-about marching,
+and emerged upon the sea-shore abreast the ships, with our usual escort
+of fifteen hundred Piraean dogs howling at our heels.  We hailed a boat
+that was two or three hundred yards from shore, and discovered
+in a moment that it was a police-boat on the lookout for any
+quarantine-breakers that might chance to be abroad.  So we dodged--we
+were used to that by this time--and when the scouts reached the spot we
+had so lately occupied, we were absent.  They cruised along the shore,
+but in the wrong direction, and shortly our own boat issued from the
+gloom and took us aboard.  They had heard our signal on the ship.  We
+rowed noiselessly away, and before the police-boat came in sight again,
+we were safe at home once more.
+
+Four more of our passengers were anxious to visit Athens, and started
+half an hour after we returned; but they had not been ashore five minutes
+till the police discovered and chased them so hotly that they barely
+escaped to their boat again, and that was all.  They pursued the
+enterprise no further.
+
+We set sail for Constantinople to-day, but some of us little care for
+that.  We have seen all there was to see in the old city that had its
+birth sixteen hundred years before Christ was born, and was an old town
+before the foundations of Troy were laid--and saw it in its most
+attractive aspect.  Wherefore, why should we worry?
+
+Two other passengers ran the blockade successfully last night.  So we
+learned this morning.  They slipped away so quietly that they were not
+missed from the ship for several hours.  They had the hardihood to march
+into the Piraeus in the early dusk and hire a carriage.  They ran some
+danger of adding two or three months' imprisonment to the other novelties
+of their Holy Land Pleasure Excursion.  I admire "cheek."--[Quotation
+from the Pilgrims.]--But they went and came safely, and never walked a
+step.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XXXIII.
+
+From Athens all through the islands of the Grecian Archipelago, we saw
+little but forbidding sea-walls and barren hills, sometimes surmounted by
+three or four graceful columns of some ancient temple, lonely and
+deserted--a fitting symbol of the desolation that has come upon all
+Greece in these latter ages.  We saw no ploughed fields, very few
+villages, no trees or grass or vegetation of any kind, scarcely, and
+hardly ever an isolated house.  Greece is a bleak, unsmiling desert,
+without agriculture, manufactures or commerce, apparently.  What supports
+its poverty-stricken people or its Government, is a mystery.
+
+I suppose that ancient Greece and modern Greece compared, furnish the
+most extravagant contrast to be found in history.  George I., an infant
+of eighteen, and a scraggy nest of foreign office holders, sit in the
+places of Themistocles, Pericles, and the illustrious scholars and
+generals of the Golden Age of Greece.  The fleets that were the wonder of
+the world when the Parthenon was new, are a beggarly handful of
+fishing-smacks now, and the manly people that performed such miracles of
+valor at Marathon are only a tribe of unconsidered slaves to-day.  The
+classic Illyssus has gone dry, and so have all the sources of Grecian
+wealth and greatness.  The nation numbers only eight hundred thousand
+souls, and there is poverty and misery and mendacity enough among them
+to furnish forty millions and be liberal about it.  Under King Otho the
+revenues of the State were five millions of dollars--raised from a tax
+of one-tenth of all the agricultural products of the land (which tenth
+the farmer had to bring to the royal granaries on pack-mules any
+distance not exceeding six leagues) and from extravagant taxes on trade
+and commerce.  Out of that five millions the small tyrant tried to keep
+an army of ten thousand men, pay all the hundreds of useless Grand
+Equerries in Waiting, First Grooms of the Bedchamber, Lord High
+Chancellors of the Exploded Exchequer, and all the other absurdities
+which these puppy-kingdoms indulge in, in imitation of the great
+monarchies; and in addition he set about building a white marble palace
+to cost about five millions itself. The result was, simply: ten into
+five goes no times and none over.  All these things could not be done
+with five millions, and Otho fell into trouble.
+
+The Greek throne, with its unpromising adjuncts of a ragged population of
+ingenious rascals who were out of employment eight months in the year
+because there was little for them to borrow and less to confiscate, and a
+waste of barren hills and weed-grown deserts, went begging for a good
+while.  It was offered to one of Victoria's sons, and afterwards to
+various other younger sons of royalty who had no thrones and were out of
+business, but they all had t